Instantly, invoking an ostentatious entry – saturated red-curranted fruits, stewed mulberry. Next, a formic proclamation – soy/Worcestershire sauce and freshly tanned leather. Then, closure – beneath a descending veiled waft of icing sugar, vanilla and fragmented brandy snap. In a word, complex. Unravels with air and time. Red fruits arise from a mix of dark chocolate/mocha dust (cappuccino) and chocolate-coated liquorice. Succulent, savoury, chewy – propelled by formidable tannins and well-hidden new oak